Scooping up the feted New Establishment prize at this year’s British Fashion Awards confirmed that Erdem has well and truly made the leap from rising fashion star to serious global brand. But let’s face it, most of us knew that already. Since receiving the Fashion Fringe Award mere moments after launching his label in 2005, the Canadian born designer has picked up virtually every accolade and scored every prestigious stockist worth working one’s chicly clad derriere off to land. Obviously he’s an immensely skilled craftsman – you don’t dress everyone from Samantha Cameron to Alexa Chung without an excellent grasp of the basics – but I maintain that Erdem’s phenomenal success is due, at least in part, to the fact he creates clothes that women really, really want to wear. Every season he delivers silhouettes that suit mere mortals, as well as six foot supermodels. Add mouthwatering colour palettes and pretty-as-a-picture prints into the mix and it’s no wonder that Erdem’s divine dresses make shoppers squeal with glee. But while Erdem could most likely have continued to churn out slight variations on the uber popular floral print, garden party theme and still sold out every season, he hasn’t, and for that I applaud him.
For Pre Fall 2013, Erdem continued to explore the flirtation with subversion that permeated his Spring collection. In place of previous seasons’ ladylike lace came plastic, leather and high shine PVC. The designer’s fabric experimentation extended to include lamé tweeds, semi sheer organza, laser cut leather broderie anglaise and iridescent paillettes resembling huge fish scales in a palette that included everything from eye-popping pinks, acid edged greens and neon brights inky midnight shades and soft yolk yellow hues. But for all its surprising fabric choices, peek-a-boo detailing and seductive undertones, Erdem’s Pre Fall 2013 collection is ultimately feminine, wearable and utterly covetable… Personally, I wouldn’t want it any other way.
Love Ella. X