Fashion’s rising stars…

If there is one thing that my time in Paris really made me realise is that if you are an aspiring fashion designer then the UK is the place to be. Milan may be the best for luxury goods and Paris the home of haute couture, but when it comes to producing fresh fashion talent London certainly has the edge. With inspirational projects like Fashion East, NewGen and Fashion Fringe dedicated to nurturing up-and-coming designers and sponsoring them to launch their own labels (most of which go on to be internationally acclaimed) it is hardly surprising that here the fashion industry seems to be rather more open-minded and accessible to young designers than in other style capitals. Thats not to say that designers come to London for an easy ride, wherever you are in the world the fashion industry is doubtlessly one of the toughest to get into and most fickle to succeed in. But judging by the meteoric rise of the designers who have studied or launched their labels here over the past few years, the British fashion industry clearly plays a major role in determining who will be fashion’s next big thing.

Here are a couple of my current favourites:

David Koma

fashion David Koma
David Koma fall/winter 2010

David studied fashion at Central St Martins. He graduated last year and received Harrods design award for his MA collection. If it wasn’t already clear that David would be one to watch, he went on to win Vauxhall Scout’s merit award for his debut spring/summer 2010 collection and his sculptural, body-conscious dresses have won the acclaim of industry experts and style icons alike. David’s pieces have been featured in virtually every worthwhile publication under the sun, from fashion Bible’s Vogue and Elle to uber-cool pop cult Magazine’s I-D and Indie. Even Lady Gaga and Beyonce are fan’s and if that doesn’t prove that David Koma is set to be a B-I-G name then I don’t know what would!

fashion
 

David’s signature style is based on strong shapes and powerful sexuality with heavy embellishment and cut-out detailing. The fact that Lady Gaga has been pictured in his dresses (especially the one immediately above) does not surprise me one bit! I am most certainly going to join the ranks of the David Koma devotees. His dresses are sexy without being remotely trashy which is never an easy thing to achieve. I love the powerful shapes and modernity of his pieces but most of all the fact that he seems to be having a bit of fun with them. David’s fall/winter collection may be in a sober grey palette but the body-conscious fit and super-short hems of the dresses clearly show them to be catering only for the most fearless (and gym-loving) of fashionistas.

Louise Gray

fashion Louis Gray
Louis Gray fall/winter 2010

Louise also studied fashion at Central St Martins. Immediately after graduating with an MA she gained sponsorship with Fashion East – the innovative project responsible for launching the careers of Gareth Pugh, Richard Nicoll and Henry Holland to name but a few – and showed 3 seasons there. Louise’s collections feature an abundance of brightly hued pieces and eccentric Trompe l’oeil embroidery. She reworks traditional stitching and embroidery and uses a variety of hand silk-screening and printing techniques to create her unique and edgy style.

fashion louise gray
Louise Gray fall/winter 2010

I think what really appeals to me about Louise’s designs are their sheer boldness and the fact that they simply could not be more different from my own personal style. With their OTT detailing and super-bright colours Louise’s pieces are certainly eye-catching but there is also real skill and craftsmanship behind their day-glo appeal. I love the contrast between the simple shapes of the individual garments and their contrasting textures, specially developed fabrics and painstakingly-crafted embellishments. Whilst I doubt you’ll see me decked out in Louise Gray’s designs any time soon (as if my bank balance could even facilitate that!) I can appreciate the care, imagination and individuality behind them and her collections are certainly some of the most enjoyable to look at.

Hakaan

Like the rest of the fashion world, I have fallen head-over-heels in love with hot new Turkish designer Hakaan’s AMAZING dresses after witnessing the sheer perfection of his fall/winter 2010 collection.

fashion Hakaan
Hakaan fall/winter 2010 collection

Hakan Yildirim studied at Mimar Sinan fine art University in Istanbul and begun to make his name in the industry before he had even graduated, managing to win the Istanbul’s Textile and Apparel Exporter Associations’ Young Fashion Designer prize as a student. He launched his eponymous line internationally at London Fashion Week last season and the fact that the show was styled by I-D Magazine Fashion Director Edward Enniful made it clear that it would be no normal debut collection. From the fashion royalty who sat in his front row which included Carine Roitfeld and Kate Moss (probably the two most influential style icons EVER), to the bonafide ‘supers’ such as Natalia Vodianova and Lara Stone who strutted their stuff on the runway, it was obvious that the Hakaan show was the hottest ticket in town. As fellow Turkish designer Rifat Ozbeck said of Hakaan, ‘a star is born’… and judging by the riotous applause that his debut LFW collection received and the excitement with which the fashion industry has pounced on this newcomer, Rifat was clearly not wrong.

fashion Hakaan

Similarly to David Koma’s dresses, Hakaan’s signature style is sharp, structured, short and sexy. His pieces have an architectural element to them and focus on texturing, contouring and cut-out detailing to give an edge to otherwise simple dresses. Hakaan’s fall/winter collection featured a palette of putty, dove, greys and blacks. Chic, modern and totally in-keeping with the minimal luxe trend that is so huge this season.

fashion Hakaan

It may seem like I am slightly jumping on the bandwagon when I say this, but Hakaan is without a doubt my personal favourite up-and-coming designer… and anyway, following the example of Carine Roitfeld and Kate Moss can hardly be a bad thing now can it! The neutral hues of each piece give them a sophisticated elegance whilst managing to leave very little of the wearers body to the imagination. It would take a brave (or possibly foolish) non-supermodel to go where only Natalia, MariaCarla and Lara have gone before but I predict that Hakaan’s dresses will be at the top of every stylish woman’s wish list for the season to come.

Love Ella. X

Posted on by Ella Catliff in Fashion 11 Comments

11 Responses to Fashion’s rising stars…

  1. Rosanna

    love new designers!!! so exciting :)

    http://www.littlemissdressup.com

     
  2. VanilahFashion

    These collections are amazing, Louise Gray's is so quirky and unique!

    Vanilah xx

    http://www.vanilah.blogspot.com

     
  3. Summer

    I love your blog!! and this post is just amazing!!

     
  4. Brenty

    Love David Koma! He is my favorite. Nice post! I really enjoyed it ;-)

    http://afashionaddictsconfession.blogspot.com

    -Brent Billiman

     
  5. isidora!!!

    i spent all day reading your blog! it is so good!!
    and i love your style!

    you know what!, your last post inspired me because i am a designer and i am only 16 years old! now the only thing i want is to go to the UK jajaja ( sorry for my english i speak spanish)

    pd: great blog !

    isidora-novoa.blogspot.com

     
  6. isidora!!!

    i spent all day reading your blog it is so good!and i love your style!

    and you know what,i read your last post and it inspired me because i am a designer and i am only 16 years old and the only thing i want now is to go to UK (sorry for my english i talk spanish jajaja)

    pd: great blog!

     
  7. Niki B.

    I LOVE HAKAAN, such a great collection.

    xo Niki
    A Haute Mess

     
  8. Sara Louise

    amazing selection and what an interesting post !

     
  9. hélène

    True, you can always count on the UK to harbor young creative talent. Hakaan just won the andam prize too, he's so amazing!

     
  10. Beautiful Things

    such awesome dresses, I love the really bight ones :) x

     
  11. Eden

    LOVE these dresses!

     

Add a Comment