Interviews

5 Minutes with… Rebecca Taylor

When it comes to urban femininity, few do it better than New York based fashion designer, Rebecca Taylor. Rebecca’s chic-yet-practical pieces have found there way into the hearts and wardrobes of some of the world’s most stylish and successful women and earned her a reputation for being a master at fusing wearability ith covetability to create wardrobe staples with a edge.

Rebecca Taylor

I managed to snag an interview with Rebecca when she was in London last month to grill her on first jobs, wardrobe disasters and fashion empires…

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5 Minutes With… Nathalie Colin, Creative Director of Swarovski

As you, and the rest of the online population cannot failed to have realised, a couple of weeks ago I was lucky enough to attend the Scottish Fashion Awards as a guest of Swarovski. Aside from wining, dining and getting thoroughly and undeservedly spoilt, I also managed to wangle an interview with the brand’s Creative Director, Nathalie Colin. Unbelievably chic, French (duh) and a formidible businesswoman to boot, Nathalie is a force to be reckoned with. After 5, ok more like 20, minutes chatting with her I came away with a new career (and style) idol.

Natalie Colin, Swarovski

LPA: You initially studied Marketing at the prestigious French Business School “Ecole Supérieure de Commerce”, before going on to study Fashion at the – equally prestigious – Fashion Institute of Technology in the US. Was a career in the business side of fashion always your ultimate goal or was it something you realised during your studies or because of a specific experience?

NC: I definitely always wanted to work in fashion or at least, an artistic field but unfortunately I was very good at maths so everyone pushed me to do that! After my graduation my parents and teachers said that first I had to do something serious, then I could do what I wanted so I did the business degree and then I could go and enjoy studying fashion.

LPA: Talk me through a typical day as Creative Director of Swarovski… 

NC: There’s no such thing as a typical day. Every day is different but the fact that it’s not repetitive is the best thing about it. I generally arrive at the office at 8.45am after I’ve dropping my daughter at school. Then I have 15 minutes before my first meeting at 9am and from then on, another meeting every thirty minutes or hour either with the designers, with the collection director or the communications team… Then I also prepare information for my boss in terms of strategy and overall direction. We have so many other catagories besides jewellery – watches, eyeware, accessories and all the things we have to prepare for the shows – and a large part of my day is always spent communicating with all the different teams

LPA: From what I can gather, your role at Swarovski is both a creative and a business orientated one. How do you balance the two on a day-to-day basis? Which aspect of your job do you enjoy the most?

NC: As Creative Director for a big, international company with thousands of stores around the world and over 26,000 employees, you can’t do things purely based on intuition. The design approach has to be very structured. My background is in marketing and communication so I think that really helps me to balance the creative and the business sides of my job, which are both equally important. Everything starts with a creative vision but then during the course of the design process it has to be edited to make sure that the end product is wearable and commercially viable. I’ve never seen something start from a pure rational point of view but it’s vital to the success of the product.

LPA: Would you advise someone who hoped to work in branding or marketing for a brand like Swarovski to do a specialised degree in fashion marketing at a University like London College of Fashion? Or do you think it’s better to study a broader subject then gain experience in a specific field through internships?

NC: What was really important to me was the fact that I studied abroad, rather than specifically that I studied fashion. Getting exposed to a different culture was a great eye opener and taught me a lot about different approaches and of course, the course itself taugh me about the fashion business. I’d definitely recommend completing one’s studies with the experience of working abroad, whether you’re studying or working. Of course when you study fashion on top of your studies it will help develop your skills and knowlege in that field, but you can also learn directly in the company as long as you’re interested and motivated.

LPA: Fashion Marketing is one of the most in-demand aspects of the industry and you must be absolutely inundated with job and internship applications. What qualities do you look for in a potential employee or intern? 

When I recruit people to my team I don’t necessarily look for people coming from a fashion background. For me there are two main things I look for. One is the creative side, I look at applicants’ portfolios and try to spot the people who have a real talent. The second thing I consider is whether they would fit in well with the team and the values of the brand. I don’t really look at where applicants studies, having a diploma is one thing but the talent of the person is more important.

Love Ella. X

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5 Minutes With… Henry Holland

Henry Holland

LPA: I was surprised to discover that you actually studied BA Journalism, not Fashion Design. Did you originally want to work in that aspect of the industry?

HH: Well I always wanted to work in fashion and I thought journalism might be the way to go as I really enjoyed creative writing. I didn’t want to do too specific a degree so I decided to study journalism in then do lots of work experience to give me a fashion edge. Then after graduating I worked at Teen Magazine for a while which was the best job ever.

LPA: Ready-to-wear, eyewear, underwear, tights, and now Supergas too. HOH is turning into a mini fashion empire. Was this something you aimed or at least hoped to achieve when you first decided to launch your label?

HH: When I first launched House of Holland I didn’t have any expectations because it was a just a happy accident with the t-shirts and something I did for a bit of fun. Very quickly I realized that what I wanted to build was a brand, which was an all-encompassing brand that offered all these different things, not just ready-to-wear. From very early on we had a recognizable visual style which was very translatable into a variety of different products. I like to challenge myself to work in different product areas.

LPA: It was just 6 years ago that your infamous slogan t-shirts first grabbed the fashion world’s attention. Now HOH is one of the most coveted London brands around and stocked everywhere from Switzerland to Japan. Obviously there’s no secret to launching a successful brand but what would you say are the most important factors?

HH: Courage, bravery, stupidity, I think there’s a very fine line between them. I think not having formal fashion training actually helped me in a sense as I had never been told how it should be done. I’m very creative and I love that process of concept and idea through to production. I get a huge kick out of seeing people wearing my designs in the street.

LPA: What’s next for House Of Holland? Aside from world domination of course…

HH: We’re launching our own eyewear label in September and the first ever House of Holland bath & beauty products range. It’ll be sold at Boots from October… Everyone I know will be getting it for Christmas! We’ve also got 2 new collections of underwear coming out this year that are quite different to what we’ve done before. And I’ve got a TV show coming out in August which is really exciting.

LPA: What advice would you give to someone trying to establish a career in the fashion industry?

Be persistent. Be creative and try to offer something different to what’s out there. Have confidence in your own ideas and just work your arse of. The fashion industry is a very hard working one, it’s tough but it’s worth it.

Love Ella. X

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5 Minutes With… Lilian Bucke

As you may have noticed, I’m currently obsessed with Jaeger. My bordering-on-unhealthy love for the legendary British brand first started when I attended their show during London Fashion Week last September. The pastels, the details, the shorts suits… OH MY! Three minutes and 41 looks later I was addicted.

Jaeger London

This week I had the pleasure of chatting to Jaeger’s Head Buyer, Lilian Bucke, and getting the lowdown on what goes on behind-the-scenes at one of my favourite sartorial institutions…

LPA: Jaeger has been popular and profitable since 1884, what do you feel is the secret to its lasting success? Is it that you stick to the same style principals on which the brand was founded? Or is Jaeger’s longevity due to the fact that it’s constantly evolving?

LB: In terms of design and style we are forever evolving to keep the product current and modern. We remain true to our original brand values, Jaeger having been founded on the benefits and use of natural fibres, as well as quality, fit and impeccable attention to detail.

LPA: Jaeger is known for being a quintessentially British brand with a rich heritage boasts a legion of fashionable and famous fans worldwide. What do you think it is about the British style that sets it apart from the rest?

LB: We ensure our designs have timeless appeal and longevity, making them central to our customers’ wardrobes.  We pay attention to fabrics and finishes to ensure our clothes give years of service.  This is a key quality that sets us apart from the rest.

LPA: Jaeger was renowned for being the go-to label for stylish women throughout most of the 20th century then went slightly off the radar for a decade or two before coming back with a vengeance. How did the brand make its impressive return to the forefront of international fashion?

LB: Under the recent leadership of CEO Belinda Earl, part of the strategy was to focus on strengthening design, along with the launch and growth of sub brands such as Jaeger London, Jaeger Black, Accessories and most recently our Boutique by Jaeger collection. Showing our Jaeger London women’s collection on the London Fashion Week catwalk further enhanced the brand’s international profile, while last year’s launch into the Russian market meant Jaeger was available in every key global market. The launch of Jaeger’s virtual flagship store, which ships to 38 territories, has also heightened the brand’s international presence.

LPA: Since launching at London Fashion Week 2008, Jaeger London’s catwalk shows have always gathered rave reviews and been hugely popular. The brand decided not to show their AW12 collection in February, why was this? Do you think Jaeger London might show again in the future?

LB: Jaeger is currently undergoing a make-over, so watch this space!

LPA: Being a fashion buyer sounds like every shopaholics dream job, but I’m sure it’s not all picking out accessories and attending catwalk shows. On a day-to-day basis, what does your role at Jaeger actually entail?

LB:I split my time between a variety of responsibilities: reviewing sales, ensuring the teams hit the deadlines and targets for deliveries and costs, attending design meetings, reviewing proto types, meeting and visiting suppliers… My role also involves comparative shopping, we have to keep an eye on the competition.

LPA: Tell me a little about your career background. Did you study fashion? How did you work your way up to the position of Head Buyer at Jaeger?

LB: I studied fashion at the LCF and fell into pattern cutting. From then on I have held positions in Production, Brand/Design Management and Buying.

LPA: From what little I know about it, being a fashion buyer sounds like a demanding and highly specialist job that not everyone is cut out for. What particular skills/knowledge would you say it requires?

LB: Along with skill and product and market knowledge it takes real drive and determination.

LPA: What advice would you give to someone considering buying as a career? Do you think it’s worth studying fashion buying or marketing at university, or would you recommend trying to gain experience through internships instead?

LB: A mixture of fashion buying and work experience is beneficial and makes you a more attractive candidate to prospective employers.

Love Ella. X

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5 Minutes With… Michael Van der Ham

Between all the shows, presentations and parties, by the end of Fashion Week it’s sometimes a struggle to remember your own name let alone which collections you loved and which ones left you cold. Well this season there was one show in particular no amount of champagne could make me forget; the offerings of a certain Dutch designer by the name of Michael Van der Ham. I could quite happily rehash my whole show report but instead I managed to wangle an interview with the man behind the magic so he can tell you all about it himself…

Michael Van der Ham

LPA: Your AW12 show was definitely one of my fashion week favourites. What was the inspiration behind the collection?

Michael: It’s a mix of various references all re-fabricated in my own fabrics and embellishments. Some of the references include Veronica Lake, Ziegfield Folliesand other showgirl costumes, vintage dresses and gowns, everyday sportswear, casual wear, hand knits from the 1930′s… But I would re-interpret these references in modern prints, textiles and embroidery and knits. It’s a complete wardrobe from t-shirts to evening gowns and everything in between.

LPA: Your work has always been praised highly by the fashion press but it was only this season that you landed the most coveted stockist around, Net-a-Porter. Do you feel that you commercialized your style for SS12 and AW12?

Michael: I wouldn’t say so, no. It has the same integrity it had before but the difference is that the collections have grown in size and this has triggered a lot of new accounts with new stockists which is exciting.

LPA: You and your fellow Central St Martins/NewGen alumni are often grouped together as the exciting, younger generation of London designers taking the fashion world by storm. Does this create a sense of competition or comradeship between you? Having showed together for a good 6 seasons now, you must know each another pretty well.

Michael: Definitely, we all sell together in the same showroom in Paris so everybody knows each other’sbusiness! Luckily we all get on though. I don’t really feel competitive with them because our styles are all so different.

LPA: Being a fashion designer seems to be one of the most demanding and time consuming callings a person could have. How long does it take to get a collection from sketchbook to catwalk? Are you having a well-deserved break now or are you alreadyworking on SS13?

Michael: It depends, some pieces develop very quickly others take ages and ages to get right. But I start a new collection before the previous one gets shown at fashion week. Design research and fabric research I do very early on.

LPA: What has been your proudest moment in fashion so far?

Michael: I was really proud when I was nominated for a British Fashion Award, as it’s so official. Also meeting Bjork and working for her was fantastic. Mainly I just love owning and running my own business.

LPA: Who, dead or alive, would you most like to see wearing your clothes?



Michael: I don’t really think about that although I was very happy that Gwendoline Christie wore a piece recently, she is amazing.

LPA: What advice would you give to someone trying to establish a career in the fashion industry?



Michael: Do your research.

LPA: What is your ultimate aim for the Michael van der Ham brand?

Michael: To just keep growing and expanding.

Love Ella. X

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