5 Minutes With… Henry Holland

LPA: I was surprised to discover that you actually studied BA Journalism, not Fashion Design. Did you originally want to work in that aspect of the industry?

HH: Well I always wanted to work in fashion and I thought journalism might be the way to go as I really enjoyed creative writing. I didn’t want to do too specific a degree so I decided to study journalism in then do lots of work experience to give me a fashion edge. Then after graduating I worked at Teen Magazine for a while which was the best job ever.

LPA: Ready-to-wear, eyewear, underwear, tights, and now Supergas too. HOH is turning into a mini fashion empire. Was this something you aimed or at least hoped to achieve when you first decided to launch your label?

HH: When I first launched House of Holland I didn’t have any expectations because it was a just a happy accident with the t-shirts and something I did for a bit of fun. Very quickly I realized that what I wanted to build was a brand, which was an all-encompassing brand that offered all these different things, not just ready-to-wear. From very early on we had a recognizable visual style which was very translatable into a variety of different products. I like to challenge myself to work in different product areas.

LPA: It was just 6 years ago that your infamous slogan t-shirts first grabbed the fashion world’s attention. Now HOH is one of the most coveted London brands around and stocked everywhere from Switzerland to Japan. Obviously there’s no secret to launching a successful brand but what would you say are the most important factors?

HH: Courage, bravery, stupidity, I think there’s a very fine line between them. I think not having formal fashion training actually helped me in a sense as I had never been told how it should be done. I’m very creative and I love that process of concept and idea through to production. I get a huge kick out of seeing people wearing my designs in the street.

LPA: What’s next for House Of Holland? Aside from world domination of course…

HH: We’re launching our own eyewear label in September and the first ever House of Holland bath & beauty products range. It’ll be sold at Boots from October… Everyone I know will be getting it for Christmas! We’ve also got 2 new collections of underwear coming out this year that are quite different to what we’ve done before. And I’ve got a TV show coming out in August which is really exciting.

LPA: What advice would you give to someone trying to establish a career in the fashion industry?

Be persistent. Be creative and try to offer something different to what’s out there. Have confidence in your own ideas and just work your arse of. The fashion industry is a very hard working one, it’s tough but it’s worth it.

Love Ella. X

Posted on June 20, 2012 by Ella Catliff in Interviews Leave a comment

5 Minutes With… Lilian Bucke

As you may have noticed, I’m currently obsessed with Jaeger. My bordering-on-unhealthy love for the legendary British brand first started when I attended their show during London Fashion Week last September. The pastels, the details, the shorts suits… OH MY! Three minutes and 41 looks later I was addicted.

This week I had the pleasure of chatting to Jaeger’s Head Buyer, Lilian Bucke, and getting the lowdown on what goes on behind-the-scenes at one of my favourite sartorial institutions…

LPA: Jaeger has been popular and profitable since 1884, what do you feel is the secret to its lasting success? Is it that you stick to the same style principals on which the brand was founded? Or is Jaeger’s longevity due to the fact that it’s constantly evolving?

LB: In terms of design and style we are forever evolving to keep the product current and modern. We remain true to our original brand values, Jaeger having been founded on the benefits and use of natural fibres, as well as quality, fit and impeccable attention to detail.

LPA: Jaeger is known for being a quintessentially British brand with a rich heritage boasts a legion of fashionable and famous fans worldwide. What do you think it is about the British style that sets it apart from the rest?

LB: We ensure our designs have timeless appeal and longevity, making them central to our customers’ wardrobes. We pay attention to fabrics and finishes to ensure our clothes give years of service. This is a key quality that sets us apart from the rest.

LPA: Jaeger was renowned for being the go-to label for stylish women throughout most of the 20^th century then went slightly off the radar for a decade or two before coming back with a vengeance. How did the brand make its impressive return to the forefront of international fashion?

LB: Under the recent leadership of CEO Belinda Earl, part of the strategy was to focus on strengthening design, along with the launch and growth of sub brands such as Jaeger London, Jaeger Black, Accessories and most recently our Boutique by Jaeger collection. Showing our Jaeger London women’s collection on the London Fashion Week catwalk further enhanced the brand’s international profile, while last year’s launch into the Russian market meant Jaeger was available in every key global market. The launch of Jaeger’s virtual flagship store, which ships to 38 territories, has also heightened the brand’s international presence.

LPA: Since launching at London Fashion Week 2008, Jaeger London’s catwalk shows have always gathered rave reviews and been hugely popular. The brand decided not to show their AW12 collection in February, why was this? Do you think Jaeger London might show again in the future?

LB: Jaeger is currently undergoing a make-over, so watch this space!

LPA: Being a fashion buyer sounds like every shopaholics dream job, but I’m sure it’s not all picking out accessories and attending catwalk shows. On a day-to-day basis, what does your role at Jaeger actually entail?

LB:I split my time between a variety of responsibilities: reviewing sales, ensuring the teams hit the deadlines and targets for deliveries and costs, attending design meetings, reviewing proto types, meeting and visiting suppliers… My role also involves comparative shopping, we have to keep an eye on the competition.

LPA: Tell me a little about your career background. Did you study fashion? How did you work your way up to the position of Head Buyer at Jaeger?

LB: I studied fashion at the LCF and fell into pattern cutting. From then on I have held positions in Production, Brand/Design Management and Buying.

LPA: From what little I know about it, being a fashion buyer sounds like a demanding and highly specialist job that not everyone is cut out for. What particular skills/knowledge would you say it requires?

LB: Along with skill and product and market knowledge it takes real drive and determination.

LPA: What advice would you give to someone considering buying as a career? Do you think it’s worth studying fashion buying or marketing at university, or would you recommend trying to gain experience through internships instead?

LB: A mixture of fashion buying and work experience is beneficial and makes you a more attractive candidate to prospective employers.

Love Ella. X

Posted on June 7, 2012 by Ella Catliff in Interviews Leave a comment

Jaeger London

5 Minutes With… Michael Van der Ham

Between all the shows, presentations and parties, by the end of Fashion Week it’s sometimes a struggle to remember your own name let alone which collections you loved and which ones left you cold. Well this season there was one show in particular no amount of champagne could make me forget; the offerings of a certain Dutch designer by the name of Michael Van der Ham. I could quite happily rehash my whole show report but instead I managed to wangle an interview with the man behind the magic so he can tell you all about it himself…

LPA: Your AW12 show was definitely one of my fashion week favourites. What was the inspiration behind the collection?

Michael: It’s a mix of various references all re-fabricated in my own fabrics and embellishments. Some of the references include Veronica Lake, Ziegfield Folliesand other showgirl costumes, vintage dresses and gowns, everyday sportswear, casual wear, hand knits from the 1930′s… But I would re-interpret these references in modern prints, textiles and embroidery and knits. It’s a complete wardrobe from t-shirts to evening gowns and everything in between.

LPA: Your work has always been praised highly by the fashion press but it was only this season that you landed the most coveted stockist around, Net-a-Porter. Do you feel that you commercialized your style for SS12 and AW12?

Michael: I wouldn’t say so, no. It has the same integrity it had before but the difference is that the collections have grown in size and this has triggered a lot of new accounts with new stockists which is exciting.

LPA: You and your fellow Central St Martins/NewGen alumni are often grouped together as the exciting, younger generation of London designers taking the fashion world by storm. Does this create a sense of competition or comradeship between you? Having showed together for a good 6 seasons now, you must know each another pretty well.

Michael: Definitely, we all sell together in the same showroom in Paris so everybody knows each other’sbusiness! Luckily we all get on though. I don’t really feel competitive with them because our styles are all so different.

LPA: Being a fashion designer seems to be one of the most demanding and time consuming callings a person could have. How long does it take to get a collection from sketchbook to catwalk? Are you having a well-deserved break now or are you alreadyworking on SS13?

Michael: It depends, some pieces develop very quickly others take ages and ages to get right. But I start a new collection before the previous one gets shown at fashion week. Design research and fabric research I do very early on.

LPA: What has been your proudest moment in fashion so far?

Michael: I was really proud when I was nominated for a British Fashion Award, as it’s so official. Also meeting Bjork and working for her was fantastic. Mainly I just love owning and running my own business.

LPA: Who, dead or alive, would you most like to see wearing your clothes?  

Michael: I don’t really think about that although I was very happy that Gwendoline Christie wore a piece recently, she is amazing.

LPA: What advice would you give to someone trying to establish a career in the fashion industry?  

Michael: Do your research.

LPA: What is your ultimate aim for the Michael van der Ham brand?

Michael: To just keep growing and expanding.

Love Ella. X

Posted on May 8, 2012 by Ella Catliff in Interviews 1 Comment

Michael Van Der Ham

5 Minutes with… Mother of Pearl designer, Amy Powney

As anyone worth their sartorial salt will know, Mother of Pearl is not only a jewellery component favoured by the middle aged, it’s also the name of an ultra cool fashion brand renowned for its unique take on haute sport chic. Founded by Maia Norman (AKA Mrs Damien Hirst), Mother of Pearl boasts major style and art credentials thanks to it’s talent for combining high fashion with wearability and seasonal artist collaborations.

I caught up with MOP’s Head Designer, Amy Powney, to get the inside scoop on this one-of-a-kind label…

LPA: What was your first job in fashion? And how did you get from there to your current position?

Amy: My first full time job in the industry was for Mother of Pearl. I have been working here since I graduated and five seasons ago took over as head of design.

LPA: You’re now in your fifth season as Head Designer at Mother of Pearl. Do you feel the brands aesthetic has changed or developed at all since you came on board?

Amy: Having been with Mother of Pearl for a long while, I have seen the transformations of the brand and was able to understand Maia’s direction. When taking over as head of design I had a real grasp of where it should be which enabled me to move the design on to where it is now. I feel the brand has found its aesthetic and concept that is proving to be a success!

LPA: Each season MOP collaborates with an acclaimed artist to produce the prints for the collection. How do you choose which artist to work with?

Amy: Maia picks the initial artists and then we sit down, look at the options and decide whom we both feel would work for the coming season. It’s a great process as we both can look at the work from different viewpoints, Maia is submerged in the art world and has a great knowledge for the artists and their work and I will look at the translation of the work to print, fabrics and my inspiration for the collection which makes for a perfect combination in the initial design phase.

LPA: What do you think of the relationship between art and fashion? In your opinion can, or should, fashion be considered a form of art?

Amy: Having worked closely with both fashion art art, it always surprises me how little each industry knows of the other which instantly shows how different they are. However, of course the have common links, they are both visual, creative and in cases conceptual. They both derive from a set of first hand ideas and creative inspirations and both can be looked at from both a creative viewpoint and more commercial viewpoints. At Mother of Pearl we are creating a concept, an aesthetic but mostly when I am designing for the brand I am always thinking about the final piece and would therefore relate it very strongly to product design as well as an art form, but perhaps, not art!

LPA: Mother of Pearl has always been renowned for combining sportswear with high fashion. Now sports luxe is suddenly being feted as one of this seasons “biggest trends”! Do you think that the fact athletic style is everywhere from Victoria Beckham to Topshop will have any impact on MOP?

Amy: I am sure that the new trend of sports luxe hitting the season’s top trends will have an impact, and help with the brands growth in the public eye. What’s great about Mother of Pearl is that with our seasonal collaboration with artists we can reinvent what we do with each collection so even if the sports trend moves on, Mother of Pearl will continue creating something new and evolving each season.

Love Ella. X

Posted on April 24, 2012 by Ella Catliff in Interviews 5 Comments

Mother of Pearl

5 minutes with… Corrie Nielsen

Often cited as a “modern couturier” despite the fact she shows during ready-to-wear week, the fantastical creations offered up by Corrie Nielsen certainly set her apart from the pack. Since John Galliano (pre disgrace) awarded her the Fashion Fringe title back in 2010, the designer has simply gone from strength to strength with her avant guard offerings earning her a fashion forward following all over the world. I caught up with Corrie to talk high fashion, style icons and plans for the future…

LPA: Bold tartan checks gave your AW12 collection a distinctly Scottish feel. What was it about this particular theme that inspired you?

Corrie: I looked back to my own heritage for the AW12 collection, namely to my great, great, great Scottish grandfather, John S. Burns, who immigrated to America around the time of the Revolutionary War. I combined my own ancestry with Medieval English and Scottish manners of dress, and in my research I discovered the Vestiarium Scoticum, which I named the collection after. This ancient manuscript was integral to the history of the various Scottish tartans as well as the family names behind them.

LPA: What can we expect to see from Corrie Nielsen during 2012?

Corrie: I’m doing so many things this year. I was asked to design this year’s Fashion for The Brave dress by Hilary Alexander. Jade Parfitt modelled the dress at the official photo call with Jasmine Guinness and Liza O who also both wore my designs. The dress will be the finale at the charity event at The Dorchester in September. The dress is very important to the country and I still can’t believe Hilary asked me to design it. I’ve also been asked to design a dress for an iconic someone for a new film project with Sean Connery… more details to follow.

LPA: How far in advance do you start planning your collections? Are you already working on SS13, or taking a well deserved break?

Corrie: I am researching my SS13 collection. I cannot give away too much just yet, but you can expect a large helping of Corrie Nielsen sculpture and form. I’m hoping to work with a new range of partners for the season for the show’s hair and jewellery. Working with other artists really inspires me each season.

LPA: As a designer who’s renowned for sculptural silhouettes and immaculate craftsmanship, could you ever see yourself going down the haute couture route?

Corrie: Definitely. I cannot help but design complex, voluminous, sculptural pieces, and I’m a massive perfectionist. It’s who I am. I could definitely see myself going haute couture and maybe even heading up an established house, while continuing to grow Corrie Nielsen as a brand.

LPA: Do your designs reflect your own dress sense?

Corrie: My work does feature a lot of complicated tailoring and that does tend to reflect my style. You can often find me in a tailored jacket or trousers. As for the voluminous dresses, capes, intricate corsetry… I would just consider myself the artist.

LPA: Which other designers do you rate and why?

Corrie: I appreciate the work of Junya Watanabe and Yohji Yamamoto. The architectural elements and fluid forms found with both resonate with my own design ideals. Also Thierry Mugler, Claude Montana, Jean Paul Gaultier, and Azzedeine Alaïa really set the standard and example for the fashion industry.

LPA: The phrase, “style icon” is one that is used a lot these days. Who, if anyone, do you feel truly deserves to be called iconic?

Corrie: For me a style icon needs to be timeless have a strong sense of who they are and intelligence.The Duchess of Cambridge, Florence Welch, Cate Blanchette, Daphne Guinness and Tilda Swinton are women that I would consider iconic.

LPA: Who, dead or alive, would you most like to see wearing your clothes?

Corrie: Florence Welch wore a Corrie Nielsen SS12 blouse to talk Renaissance Art on the Culture Show at the National Gallery – the blouse suited her perfectly and it would be an honour to dress those as per above, as well as Isabella Blow, Loretta Young and I have a secret love for the Duchess of Devonshire, Georgiana Cavendish.

LPA: What advice would you give to someone trying to establish a career in the fashion industry?

Corrie: The fashion industry is one of the most difficult industries to work in. It takes a lot of patience, a bit of luck, hard work and you must surround yourself with people who believe in and support what you do.

LPA: What is your ultimate aim for the Corrie Nielsen brand?

Corrie: I have short term and long-term aims. I would love to see Corrie Nielsen in Harrods, Henri Bendel, Bergdorf Goodman, Ikram, Lane Crawford and on Net-a-Porter. Long term I could see a Corrie Nielsen stand alone boutique or two, a diffusion range and definitely a menswear line.

For my full review of Corrie’s AW12 show, click here

Love Ella. X

Posted on April 11, 2012 by Ella Catliff in Interviews 1 Comment

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