Another season, another breathtaking show from the wonderful Alber Elbaz. Only he could take the idea of an angel in hell as a starting point and concoct a collection that fused sportswear with red carpet chic to create something truly beautiful. The aesthetic was sleek, modern and sexy combining thigh high slits, plunging necklines and cut-away detailing with clean lines and slicked back hair. Strong shapes, fluid fabrics and cinched waists gave Lanvin’s ladies a femme fatal air, exuding a gothic glamour that felt both elegant and powerfully seductive. Striking monochrome looks were interspersed with mesmerizing snake prints and dusky hues before bursting into a dazzling, jewel toned finale. Sheer will most definitely be sticking around come Spring and Lanvin’s new season collection included some truly showstopping chiffon numbers.
I’ve always had the feeling that Guillaume Henry designs his collections especially for me and his latest show just about proved it. Over the past few seasons Carven has become one of the fash packs’ most coveted labels and the brand’s SS12 offerings were nothing less than perfection. Skater skirts, pleated mini’s, adorable collars and immaculate tailoring were the order of the day in butter soft leathers, eye-popping brights and graphic, summer-ready prints. The look was unapologetically fun and deliciously girlish with lace inserts, super-short shorts and cut-aways below the bust adding just the right amount of naughtiness. Rarely do you see a collection where you’d kill for every single item but for me, Carven’s latest was just that.
It was another stella show (sorry, couldn’t resist) from Ms McCartney this season. The designer wowed the crowds in Paris with a collection that combined super sleek tailoring with slouchy shapes and barely-there summer dresses. With her penchant for crisp whites and immaculate suiting, Stella designs tasteful clothes for grown-ups but there was certainly nothing conservative about her latest offerings. Hemlines were shorter than ever before whilst scalloped edges, crochet detailing and strategically placed mesh inserts gave the collection a fresh, playful twist. It appears that clashing your prints will still be de rigeur come Spring. Stella’s collection was a riot of polka dots, checks and graphic patterns with retro sunglasses adding just a hint of kitsch. The overall aesthetic was deliciously louche and effortless with elegant jumpsuits sitting comfortably alongside thigh-skimming slip dresses, oversized sweaters and micro shorts. All in all a delicious collection that would be equally at home on the streets of Paris as aboard a yaught in St Tropez.
What would the world, or at least the fashion world, do withought Karl Lagerfeld? Mad he may be, but my God does that man know how to put on a show. The white gloved one’s latest collection for Chanel was truly a joy to behold. From demure, pencil-skirted twinsuits in soft creams and delicate blush hues to multi-coloured, organza confections – every single ensemble was covetable beyond belief. It was a perfect fusion of the old and the new which combined classic pieces with assymetric hemlines, zips and sculptured, exaggerated silhouettes. The brand’s trademark boucle wool, boxy jacket was given a 2012 makeover to sit atop voluminous skirts or casually flung over a show-stopping dress. As per usual the collection was a textural extravaganza encompassing frayed knits, high shine PVC and just about everything in between. From subtle, pearl adornments to ornate embellishment, not so much as a button was applied without painstaking attention to detail. Even viewing it on the smeary surface of my computer screen I could see that Chanel’s latest show was the kind of sartorial spectacle that makes you want to be a Princess aged ten and Editor of Vogue aged 15.
Love Ella. X