LFW AW14: Day 4 Pt 2

Firstly I must apologise for these essay length posts, I just can’t help myself! When the shows are as stellar as so many of them were during LFW AW14 it’s hard not to go on and on… and on. Having seen three really cracking collections already by mid afternoon on day 4, I still had a fair few to go so I’m now going to render that apology redundant by describing them in detail, soz.

After leaving Burberry and very, very nearly getting trampled by paps stampeding through the park in an attempt to snap Bradley Cooper I made the attempted high speed journey to Somerset House for David Koma. I’ve long adored David, both as a person and as a designer. Many moons ago he interviewed me as a potential intern. Luckily that never happened as my lack of I probably would have been useless but every time I’ve seen him since I’ve been struck even more by David Koma’s charm, dedication and talent.  When he was announced as Artistic Director for Mugler in December (at just 28 years old!) I’m sure I wasn’t the only one who thought “about time too!” Recent seasons have seen the welcome introduction of real experimentation within Koma signature body conscious aesthetic and his AW14 offerings were an example of a designer who perfectly nails his niche without becoming imprisoned by it.

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David Koma AW14 (Images via Style.com)

Razor sharp cuts and silhouettes almost severe in their precision were softened by glossy ponyskin and flirtatiously flared hemlines. But of course, strong shapes are what we’ve come to expect from David Koma. What really wowed me was the extreme, flawless detailing and ingenious fabric use. Leather came intricately laser cut, woven into sculptural corsetry and crafted into immaculate accordion pleats or softly falling A-line minis. The colour palette flowed seamlessly through inky noir hues and vivid purples to ice whites and dove greys before reverting to black and cobalt combinations for a fearsome finale. Whether his girl is unleashing her inner vixen in form fitting leather or embracing full skirted femininity, she’s certainly not to be messed with.

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David Koma AW14 (Images via Style.com)

Next on my LFW day 4 agenda was a show I was VERY excited about, Peter Pilotto. Having enjoyed the week of Peter Pilotto not so long ago, I couldn’t wait to reacquaint myself with their particular brand of design brilliance. Having scooped up this year’s BFC/Vogue Fashion Fund Award and collaborated with Target on a collection that sold out globally in seconds, Christopher De Vos and Peter Pilotto are undoubtedly the men of the moment and as such, their’s was a seriously hot ticket show. To be honest, it usually is, and rightly so. Basically everyone who’s anyone was in attendance, from Business of Fashion Founder, Imran Ahmed, Natalie Massenet, Ruth and Tom Chapman of Matches and basically every Editor under sun to a strictly A list line up of sartorial ‘slebs on the FROW. The venue was certainly something, black glass all around, blinking fluorescent strip lights and only two rows affording us an incredible view of the show. And this was the kind of show you wanted to get a seriously good look at.

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Peter Pilotto AW14 (Images via Style.com)

After a bit of drama involving one of said black glass constructions almost falling on Hilary Alexander and Suzy Menkes (oops) the show began with a bang and there was a collective drawing of breath as the first models stormed out. Inspired by “hybrids and fusion”, Peter Pilotto offered up a play on contrasts and extremes to create a collection compelling in terms of both aesthetics and complexity. It was one of those collections that had me asking myself how on earth they possibly dreamed it up, let alone turned that dream into a wearable reality.

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Peter Pilotto AW14 (Images via Style.com)

As promised, there was fusion a’plenty in the form of mesh and nylon banding, neoprene and an assortment of other tech fabrics juxtaposed with delicate head-beading, mother of pearl detailing and Linton tweed. From the contrast coloured fur trimmed knits to the kaleidoscopic cocktail dresses adorned with architectural embellishment, no surface was left unworked. Sleek silhouettes allowed for vivid pattern, abstract panorama prints in a riot of clashing brights providing a visual feast for us show goers. I think it’s safe to say that the future of De Vos and Pilotto looks even brighter than their AW14 offerings (sorry).

Very very long term LPA readers may remember, back in my early blogging days I wrote a piece on up-and-coming designers featuring the talented Michael Van der Ham. Three and a bit years on, Michael has most certainly arrived and if there remained any doubt in anyone’s minds about that fact, his AW14 collection would have put paid to it. One thing that really struck me over LFW AW14 was how so many younger designers, like Van der Ham, David Koma and Peter Pilotto to name but a few, expertly manage to convey an aesthetic that is recognisably “them” while still evolving, innovating and surprising us each season.

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Michael Van der Ham AW14 (Images via Style.com)

Establishing a trademark aesthetic while continually pushing the envelope in terms of creativity is a delicate balance but this lot nail it and produce collections that are commercially viable, it’s inspiring. Michael Van der Ham achieved this beautifully for AW14 offering an updated version of the appliquéd collage that has become his calling card on sleek separates in bright silk jacquards. Intricate lace layered over contrast coloured silks, velvet trimmed chiffon and exquisitely embroidered gauze added to the textural brilliance of it all. But for all the sophisticated fabrics and the painstaking techniques involved, Michael Van der Ham’s AW14 collection had a light, playful air and was all the more delectable for it.

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Michael Van der Ham AW14 (Images via Style.com)

Last but not least on that very long afternoon was Giles, a seasoned LFW fixture as I’m sure you well know. He arguably provided one of the most instagrammable performances of the day, what with Cara Delevingne’s mid catwalk selfie and Kendal Jenner’s cameo. There was certainly a spot of spectacle, which I never think is a bad thing in a fashion show.

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GILES AW14 (Images via Style.com)

As for the clothes themselves, the collection kicked off with an array of ensembles featuring a Hummingbird motif splashed across silks in a mouthwatering palette of orange, blue and grey. An array of sculptural monochrome dresses with tumbling swathes of satin were a masterful example of Giles doing what he does so well, and I have to say, Miss Jenner looked pretty hot. As for the tougher looks – low slung motorcycle pants, enormous knits and leather all over styled with wool tights and clumpy kicks – I wasn’t convinced.

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GILES AW13 (Images via Style.com)

Having since read Maya Singer’s Style.com review pretty much stating the opposite of what I’ve just said, this is no doubt reflective of my personal taste rather than any actual fault. Regardless of one’s views on grunge V gowns, combining both in one collection and doing so cohesively is no mean feat, I’ll say that much.

Love Ella. X

Posted on by Ella Catliff in Fashion Week 1 Comment

One Response to LFW AW14: Day 4 Pt 2

  1. Cheni

    David Koma is perfection! Love his collections!

     

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