By the final day of New York Fashion Week I found myself, for the first time ever, craving a pair of trainers. My state of exhaustion wasn’t helped by the fact that I woke up on Suitcase Magazine Editor and my partner in crime, Serena’s sofa less than two hours before my first show of the day.
I wore… Coat: Whistles, Shirt & Bag: Jaeger London, Skirt & Beret: American Apparel, Shoes: Kurt Geiger, Gloves: Accessorize.
With a lot more luck than I deserved I somehow managed to make it to Lincoln Centre in time for Nanette Lepore. I always adore Nanette’s collections and, as you may remember, had a slight Cinderella moment when she dressed me for the WGSN Global Fashion Awards last Autumn. Last season I fell hard for her joyous tropical brights and punchy prints but in the battle for my heart, Nanette’s latest offerings provided some stiff competition. Drawing inspiration from footage she’d seen of the Mars Curiosity, the designer delivered a perhaps bolder array of ensembles than we’ve seen from her in previous seasons. Fiery digital prints paid homage to the Red Planet while khaki looks and sculpted plum leather added a sharper, utilitarian element. As expected, there were killer cocktail dresses a’plenty but Lepore also tapped into AW13’s obsession with androgyny by way of hooded parkas, mannish overcoats and seriously sharp suiting. Much like last season, every other look I saw during the Nanette Lepore show elicited an “ohmigod I want it!” kind of reaction.
Nanette Lepore AW13
By this point I was in seriously dire need of caffeine and made a high speed Starbucks stop to pick up a latte which I promptly spilled all over myself. By the time I arrived at the Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti show I was feeling more than a little frazzled but cheered up considerably when I bumped into the lovely Tali Lennox in the queue. Having also been at the Diesel ‘do’, Tali feeling equally worse for wear (not that you could see it) and we commiserated over our mutual hangovers in the queue. Once inside I waved Tali goodbye as she took her place on the FROW next to Miroslava Duma and Olivia Palermo who looked so unbelievably elegant that I almost couldn’t bear to look at her. This was Philosophy’s first season under new Creative Director Natalia Ratabesi and I was intrigued to see how she developed the label. I can imagine that taking over from a fashion doyenne like Ferretti poses a fair few challenges but x really rose to the occasion, offering up a rather sleeker, more modern look than we’ve seen in previous seasons while still retaining the brands inherent Italian elegance. Luscious textural knits and rich, burnished gold brocades were kept fresh by their combination with clean lines and athletic touches including mesh panels, elastic trims and zip detailing. Excellent separates came by way of subtly embellishex peplum tops, neat cigarette pants and immaculate tailoring. Of course, it wouldn’t have been a Philosphy di Alberta Ferretti show without a fur or five and several stunning evening dresses. Overall the collection was a rare combination of commercially appealing and sartorially surprising, an impressive debut from Ratabesi.
Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti AW13
When a “celeb” turns their hand to fashion design, it is inevitably met with some industry reservation. Admittedly I havan’t always been overly infatuated with the boho luxe collections delivered by Rachel Zoe but this season I think it’s safe to say she nailed it. Gone were the floaty maxi skirts and the piled on accessories. In their place came svelte silhouettes, luxe fabrics and immaculate tailoring. The vibe was cool, contemporary and ever-so-slightly equestrian styled with minimal makeup, low ponytails and glossy, knee-high leather boots. A palette of lusciously understated neutrals, save for the odd hit of olive green or rich burgundy, enhanced the overall air of well groomed elegence while some truly excellent outerwear had me reaching for my ever growing wish list.
Rachel Zoe AW13
After a breather and bite to eat it was time for me to venture back into Lincoln Centre for my final show of the week, Milly by Michelle Smith. Now you know me, I’m a sucker for a dance-ready cocktail hour ensemble and whether she’s doing super girly or, like last season, sportif chic Smith always delivers them in spades. Her latest collection was particularly covetable in a charmingly “look at me” kind of way. Hologram leather featured heavily, applied to sweatshirts and pencil skirts to be worn mix n’ matched or top to toe depending on how brave you’re feeling. Punchy prints, oversized checks and eye-popping shades of orange and cobalt blue were perfectly offset by simpler pieces such as tailored trousers and mannish overcoats in restrained grey wool. While I liked the Milly show last season, Michelle Smith’s latest offerings were infinitely cooler and her deliciously shimmering final provided a suitably covetable end to a truly incredible New York Fashion Week.
Milly by Michelle Smith AW13
Love Ella. X