I wore: Whistles coat, Troy London beanie, Ralph Lauren jumper, POLO Ralph Lauren dress, Pollini boots, Style Skins stole and Alice + Olivia bag.
Image by Sarah Barnes
At long last we’ve reached my penultimate NYFW AW15 diary! Sorry these are ever so slightly later than I’d ideally like to be posting them. Between the New York to London turnaround, the Elle Style Awards and a whole bunch of shoots, things have been a little crazy! Day 6 in New York dawned cold, crisp and gorgeous. I decided to wear an adorable floral Polo Ralph Lauren tea dress that I’d picked up during #Polo day the week before, layered up like crazy with thick tights and knitwear. Latte in hand, I headed west to my first show of the morning, Nanette Lepore…
I’ve always been a fan of Nanette’s work and have amassed a fair few of her pieces over the years. Having seen her AW15 fare, I’ll definitely be adding a few more. This season’s collection was entitled “posh rebels”, a theme I could definitely get on board with in theory but in practice had the potential to go horribly wrong. Thankfully Lepore is an industry old hand who wholly owns her brand and knows exactly what her consumers want, delivering a pitch perfect array of every-so-slight subverted prep. Set to the sound of Bowie’s “Rebel, Rebel”, the show offered up uptown punkettes in pink wool two pieces paired with plum pouts and stompy, clompy flatforms; neatly cut brass buttoned capes; shiny striped jacquard; chintzy prints and plaid reworked in acid hues. The decade mash up that has permeated the AW15 collections continued with 60’s A line minis, 70’s fluid flute sleeved frocks and disco ready silk jumpsuits through to lace layered under button down slips that had a distinctly 90’s feel to them. It was a little bit preppy, little bit hippy and a little bit badass, all in all a great show from Nanette Lepore.
If day 5 saw the pace of my NYFW schedule ease up then day 6 was positively a holiday! With a leisurely couple of hours until my next show, I teetered home to do some work and make lunch before HUGO BOSS. Having held their SS15 show high up tower 4 at the new World Trade Centre, BOSS has set the bar high when it came to their venue but 225 Liberty St – a glass walled sky scraper offering panoramic views of the city and the East River including the emotive site of the ever growing new world trade centre – certainly delivered. HUGO BOSS is of course one of the big production, big budget icon shows that hauls in digital stars and editors from all over the world and boasts a killer FROW. This season’s including Julianne Moore and Dakota Johnson who took a break from generating Oscar buzz and smashing box office records to look the picture of elegance in BOSS’ trademark tailoring.
Jason Wu delivered for killer show for SS15 season and this season’s press release promised that AW15 would see him “crystallize his vision for the brand” so I waited in eager anticipation to see what the German über brand’s Artistic Director had in store for AW15.
No sooner had campaign star Edie Campbell opened the show than I knew it was going to be something special. Deftly sculpted wool in contrasting grey and neon orange paired with ultra luxe matching accessories moved into woven jagged lattice prints, luxe black sleeveless coats with glossy calf hair bodies and shimmering chain mail esque column dresses styled with no nonsense flat boots and slicked low ponytails. It was a sleek, modern, fearless offering; flawlessly tailored, sharp shouldered and harsh in a good way. Wu cannily riffed on the house’s tailoring legacy with suit jackets elongated to form day dresses and evening tuxedos that provided the perfect evening alternative to more traditional cocktail attire. Fabric innovation – think contrasting woven macro-scale tweeds, mélange wool bonded to jersey, raw edged double faced fabrics and laser cut sequins with plasticized finishes and tulle overlays – were married with utility detailing furthered the juxtaposition between masculine and feminine; the manufactured and the organic. As promised, Wu presented a collection that had a clear identity and sense of powerful serenity to it. The new HUGO BOSS is a brand I can certainly get on board with.
In my experience, getting hundreds of show attendees out of a venue like 225 Liberty Street is slightly nightmarish (only so many can fit in one lift) but on this occasion everything ran pretty smoothly and I found myself out on the street in minutes. As you can probably imagine, I had an obscene amount of work to do (NYFW write ups, LFW planning etc etc) before I could set out for the evening so I pegged it home as fast as my Pollini booted feet could carry me. Time certainly flies when you really want it not to and before I knew it, it was time to hit the road once more for my final show of the day, Anna Sui. As some of you might remember, Sui’s was one of the first show I ever attended in New York when I made my NYFW as a guest of GANT, so long ago I wasn’t even allowed a glass of wine with my dinner. Even if I didn’t love her clothes Anna Sui would still hold a special place in my heart for this reason but, of course, I do.
For AW15 the designer drew on a newfound obsession with the History Channel’s Vikings series, an unlikely reference perhaps but one that resulted in a rich, thoughtful and just plain gorgeous collection. It was a delicious, riotous mash up of prints, fabrics and assorted furry trims ranging from shearling to electric blue Mongoliam lamb. There’s certainly been an air of the bohemian about many collections this season and it was out in full force here. Think prints upon prints, flowing chiffon, loose silhouettes, piled on layers and deliberately unkempt hair. The styling was perhaps a little OTT but pulled apart you’re looking at an array of joyous, thoughtfully created pieces. Come AW15 I expect to see a lot of girls turn Viking princess, in the Gigi Hadid by Anna Sui mould.
One more NYFW AW15 diary to go mes amies! Then let’s talk about London…
Love Ella. X