David Koma

London Fashion Week SS13: Day 4, part 1

There is always one day of London Fashion Week so intense, just looking at the schedule makes your feet hurt. This season, the day in question was Monday. With shows on the hour every hour from 9am sharp, it was going to be a long one, but luckily the designer line up was so spectacular that the inevitable bruised toes and aching limbs we’d all be suffering from by the evening paled in comparison to the sartorial delights in store.

London Fashion Week

I wore…
Suit: Topshop
Shirt: Zara
Shoes: Massimo Dutti
Bag: Anya Hindmarch

Having spent the previous evening sipping, ok guzzling, champagne and the Whistles & TANK Magazine cocktail party before heading to Mahiki for an event hosted by Phil Oh, Derek Blasberg and Alexa Chung I wasn’t feeling at my most sprightly as I made my way to the Topshop Show Space, located in the beautiful Bedford Square. However my morning-after daze was soon obliterated by the kaleidescopic creations offered up by dynamic design duo, Peter Pilotto. You can keep your triple shot lattes and berocca, for a pick-me-up that packs a punch, PP style sensory sensations are where it’s at.
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Posted on by Ella Catliff in Fashion Week 2 Comments

La Petite Fashion Week Diaries: London AW12, Day 5

Fashion Week

I wore… Hat: Vintage, Jacket: All Saint, Jumper: Zara, Shirt: Whistles, Boots: Hobbs, Bag: Mulberry

The last day of London Fashion Week is usually a fairly bittersweet affair. On the one hand you’re sad that the bonanza of shows, parties and endless mingling is about to be replaced with an unwelcome return to reality. On the other, your toes are swollen, limbs aching, head throbbing and the idea of spending the next few days lounging around in your pyjamas has never been so attractive. Well there was none of that for me this season as after my final London show I would be dashing home to grab my oversized suitcase and head to the airport to catch my flight to Milan. But I still had a couple of London shows to go before embarking on my Italian adventure and first up was David Koma. I’ve always been a big fan of David’s but this season he well and truly knocked it out of the park with a collection that fused his trademark bodyconscious, futuristic style with influences as diverse as ancestral portraits, 1920′s menswear and Louis Icart’s Art Deco paintings. Wool, fur and silks were combined with technical fabrics in a palette of stark monochrome shades and dark blues, olive greens and plum tones before erupting into another glittering finale. Sleek and structured silhouettes were juxtaposed with Victorian inspired ruched draping and distinctive, high collars made for fierce femininity with an androdgynous twist. The collection was less overtly sexy than David’s previous offerings but all the more alluring for it.

David Koma London Fashion Week

It is a truth universally acknowleged that fashion shows never, EVER start on time. Well by Day 5 of London Fashion Week you’re lucky if they start within 45 minutes of what it says on the schedule. After David’s show I legged it out onto The Strand in the home of dashing across town in time to attend the Anya Hindmarch presentation which was supposed to have started 15 minutes previously. Suffice to say I didn’t make it and ended up spending an hour sulking in Starbucks (every cloud, eh?) before heading back into the BFC Tent for my last show of the season, Holly Fulton. Minimalism all well and good but personally I can’t help but feel that fashion should fundamentally make you happy or quite frankly, what’s the point of it? Well it’s impossible to leave one of Holly’s shows without a grin on your face that would make the Cheshire cat look sullen and that is one of the many reasons why I adore her. It was another very late starter but I was happily ensonsced in the “blogger block” with Ella of Coco’s Tea Party, Tala of MyFashDiary and Danielle of Fashionista Barbie so didn’t mind one bit. According to the show notes Holly would be “chanelling a little bit of Lady Chatterly” for AW12 and that is precisely what she did. Think Lady of the Manor meets lady of the night with classic silhouettes in super bright shades of pink and blue featuring exotic, graphic prints and deco glam detailing. Silhouettes may have been demure, but the attitude of the show was raucous. Cute, collarless jackets, simple separates and chic cocktail dresses had been re-worked Fulton style with lashings of feathers, perspex, PVC and oodles of eye-popping embellishment. Polo necks and pencil skirts have never looked so covetable and once again I found myself declaring this to be my favourite show of the week.

Holly Fulton London Fashion Week

After that it was time to make a mad dash home to try and cram working, packing and maaaaybe catching up on an episode of Gossip Girl or two before my car arrived to whiz me off the the airport. It had been a fantastic, exhausting, exhilerating five days but fashion week certainly wasn’t over yet.

Love Ella. X

Posted on by Ella Catliff in Fashion Week 2 Comments

BREAKING NEWS!!! BFC Announces NEWGEN Recipients for AW12

Milan may be master of luxury and Paris King of Couture but when it comes to scouting out fashion’s next-big-thing, no one does it better than London. The other week I posted the news of this years’ shortlist for the BFC/Vogue Fashion Fund, but this is by no means the only scheme concocted by the British Fashion Council in order to provide talented young designers with the support they need to suceed. Back in 1993, whilst I was practically still in babygro’s, the BFC created New Generation (NEWGEN), one of the world’s most prestigious and internationally recognised talent identification programme. This ingenius initiative offers helps catwalk designers get their collections down the runway by providing them with financial support and the opportunity to use the BFC Catwalk Show Space and London Fashion Week. Others recieve sponsored presentation or exhibition space enabling them to showcase their work to some of the biggest hitters throughout the fashion world.

Given that previous recipients have included Alexander McQueen, Matthew Williamson, Christopher Kane and Erdem I think it’s safe to say that NEWGEN is one of the most-coveted prizes around. But that’s enough blurb for one post, here are the up-and-coming stars who’ve scooped up the AW12 award…

Catwalk Sponsorship: David Koma, Holly Fulton, J JS Lee, Michael Van Der Ham, J.W. Anderson and Simone Rocha

NEWGEN
From left: David Koma, Holly Fulton, Michael Van der Ham & J.W. Anderson SS12

Presentation Sponsorship: Christopher Raeburn and Thomas Tait

NEWGEN
From Left: Christopher Raeburn SS12, Thomas Tait SS12

Installation Sponsorship: Nasir Mazhar and SISTER By Sibling

Exhibition Sponsorship: Huishan Zhang, James Long, Lucas Nascimiento, Palmer/Harding, Tim Soar and all designers recieving catwalk, presentation and installation sponsorship.

NEWGEN
From left: Huishan Zhang, James Long and Lucas Nascimiento SS12

And that’s not all, this season just so happens to be the 10th Anniversary of Topshop’s sponsorship of the scheme and according to my sources there are serious festivities planned in honour of the occasion… Bring on February I say!

Love Ella. X

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La Petite Fashion Week Diaries: London SS12, Day 5

So after five long days of catwalk shows, presentations and of course, parties, London Fashion Week has finally drawn to a close. Unless of course you count menswear day which, let’s face it, just isn’t as much fun. The end of fashion week is always a rather bittersweet experience. On the one hand your sad to wave goodbye to what is always a joyous coming together of the sartorially minded. But at the same time the idea of wearing flat shoes, comfy jeans and going make up free for a few days is pretty darned attractive.

fashion week
I wore… Blazer: Zara, Top, Shorts & Bag: Whistles, Shoes: Topshop
Tights: Accessorize, Necklace: Anne Bowes Jewellery

Having danced the night away at the “This is New York” party hosted by uber bloggers Tommy Ton and Susie Bubble I was ready to hang up my heels come Tuesday morning. But there were still a few shows to go and they were simply too good to miss so I donned my final fashion week outfit and headed, ok hobbled to the tube. First up was Meadham Kirchoffat the Topshop venue. As handpicked protegee’s of Fashion East founder Lulu Kennedy, Ed Meadham and Ben Kirchoff’s designs were always going to good. But quite how successful the boys would be, even Lulu couldn’t have predicted. Known and loved for putting two fingers up at prescribed good taste, Meadham Kirchoff scooped up the prestigious “Next Young Designer” gong at this years’ the Elle Style Awards and have been praised by every fash mag worth reading from Love to Vogue and pretty much everything in between. With a FROW that included her Royal Highness, Anna Wintour, the pressure was really on this season and boy, did the designers deliver.

fashion week
Hamish Bowles & Anna Wintour at Meadham Kirchoff

The Topshop show space was decorated with balloon archways and began with a rabble of Courtney Love look-a-likes who burst onto the runway caking on red lipstick and dancing wildly. The collection that followed was an eye-popping spectacle of candy colours, sparkles, ruffles and feathers. Cartoon esque prints, pastel shades, gingham checks and fluffy marabou were applied to micro shift dresses and cropped coats with exquisite sculptured dresses in broderie anglaise. It soon became clear that the theatrics wouldn’t stop there as a troop of tweenage ballerinas twirled onto the catwalk, revealing behind them a group of models perfectly posed atop a giant cake. One by one the models took to the catwalk dressed in a dazzling array of spectacular sequinned numbers and shrunken Marie Antoinette style dresses. The collection was theatrical, indulgent and an absolute joy to behold. Several people were even reduced to tears and when their show yielded a rare smile from Anna, Meadham Kirchoff’s fate as fashion’s latest darlings was well and truly sealed.

fashion week
Meadham Kirchoff SS12
fashion week
Meadham Kirchoff SS12

After that I hot footed it back to Somerset House (fashion week is definitely the most intensive form of cardio!) for the Tata Nakapresentation. Natasha and Tamara Surguladze launched Tata Naka straight after graduating from St Martins and since then the brand has simply gone from strength to strength. The girls really pulled out all the stops this season with a collection that looked good enough to eat. Delicate summer dresses, jumpsuits and chic separates came in a mixture of exquisite floral prints, soft nudes and clashing, brights. The collection hit the perfect balance between fashion forward and wearable with quirky touches such as pleated panels, asymmetric hemlines and neat collars bringing simple shapes and delicate detailing bang up to date. Styles with floral hairpieces, flowing locks and adorable matching shoes Tata Naka’s SS12 offerings were a girly girl’s dream. All in all a fabulously feminine and utterly covetable collection that will be topping many a wish list come Spring.

fashion week
Tata Naka SS12
fashion week
Tata Naka SS12

Day 5 seemed to positively fly by (possibly due to the 2pm start) and all of a sudden I found myself with only one show left to go. Then again, David Koma is one of my favourite designers so I’d be hard pushed to think of a better show to top off a fantastic London Fashion Week. The FROW was littered with famous fashion faces and influential industry players including Harpes Bazaar Editor Kim Hersov and Grazia’s Melanie Rickey.

fashion week
Grazia’s Editor-at-Large, Melanie Rickey
at David Koma

David’s last two collections gathered unanimous rave reviews and this season saw the young designer develop his style one step further with a selection of bold looks that combined his signature body-conscious silhouette with something totally new. Figure clinging dresses in semi-sheer devore jersey were adorned with strategically placed Polynesian tribal motifs. Shapes where as sharp as ever and David kept his palette simple but striking with monochrome looks and perfectly placed bursts of flourescent brights. Fetishista’s rejoice as it looks as though bondage inspired looks will be sticking around for Spring. David’s show featured lashings of leather forming carefully constructed peplums of pleats and fringing, adding a tougher edge to barely-there dresses.

fashion week
David Komas SS12
fashion week
David Koma SS12

Tribal customs may have provided the inspiration but the collection was undeniably modern with iridescent sequins and perspex discs giving the final looks a futuristic feel. At the risk of sounding like an judge on America’s Next Top Model, the show was fierce with David’s fearless designs providing an inspiring finale to my Fashion Week Diaries.

Love Ella. X

Posted on by Ella Catliff in Fashion Week 3 Comments

Fashion’s rising stars…

If there is one thing that my time in Paris really made me realise is that if you are an aspiring fashion designer then the UK is the place to be. Milan may be the best for luxury goods and Paris the home of haute couture, but when it comes to producing fresh fashion talent London certainly has the edge. With inspirational projects like Fashion East, NewGen and Fashion Fringe dedicated to nurturing up-and-coming designers and sponsoring them to launch their own labels (most of which go on to be internationally acclaimed) it is hardly surprising that here the fashion industry seems to be rather more open-minded and accessible to young designers than in other style capitals. Thats not to say that designers come to London for an easy ride, wherever you are in the world the fashion industry is doubtlessly one of the toughest to get into and most fickle to succeed in. But judging by the meteoric rise of the designers who have studied or launched their labels here over the past few years, the British fashion industry clearly plays a major role in determining who will be fashion’s next big thing.

Here are a couple of my current favourites:

David Koma

fashion David Koma
David Koma fall/winter 2010

David studied fashion at Central St Martins. He graduated last year and received Harrods design award for his MA collection. If it wasn’t already clear that David would be one to watch, he went on to win Vauxhall Scout’s merit award for his debut spring/summer 2010 collection and his sculptural, body-conscious dresses have won the acclaim of industry experts and style icons alike. David’s pieces have been featured in virtually every worthwhile publication under the sun, from fashion Bible’s Vogue and Elle to uber-cool pop cult Magazine’s I-D and Indie. Even Lady Gaga and Beyonce are fan’s and if that doesn’t prove that David Koma is set to be a B-I-G name then I don’t know what would!

fashion
 

David’s signature style is based on strong shapes and powerful sexuality with heavy embellishment and cut-out detailing. The fact that Lady Gaga has been pictured in his dresses (especially the one immediately above) does not surprise me one bit! I am most certainly going to join the ranks of the David Koma devotees. His dresses are sexy without being remotely trashy which is never an easy thing to achieve. I love the powerful shapes and modernity of his pieces but most of all the fact that he seems to be having a bit of fun with them. David’s fall/winter collection may be in a sober grey palette but the body-conscious fit and super-short hems of the dresses clearly show them to be catering only for the most fearless (and gym-loving) of fashionistas.

Louise Gray

fashion Louis Gray
Louis Gray fall/winter 2010

Louise also studied fashion at Central St Martins. Immediately after graduating with an MA she gained sponsorship with Fashion East – the innovative project responsible for launching the careers of Gareth Pugh, Richard Nicoll and Henry Holland to name but a few – and showed 3 seasons there. Louise’s collections feature an abundance of brightly hued pieces and eccentric Trompe l’oeil embroidery. She reworks traditional stitching and embroidery and uses a variety of hand silk-screening and printing techniques to create her unique and edgy style.

fashion louise gray
Louise Gray fall/winter 2010

I think what really appeals to me about Louise’s designs are their sheer boldness and the fact that they simply could not be more different from my own personal style. With their OTT detailing and super-bright colours Louise’s pieces are certainly eye-catching but there is also real skill and craftsmanship behind their day-glo appeal. I love the contrast between the simple shapes of the individual garments and their contrasting textures, specially developed fabrics and painstakingly-crafted embellishments. Whilst I doubt you’ll see me decked out in Louise Gray’s designs any time soon (as if my bank balance could even facilitate that!) I can appreciate the care, imagination and individuality behind them and her collections are certainly some of the most enjoyable to look at.

Hakaan

Like the rest of the fashion world, I have fallen head-over-heels in love with hot new Turkish designer Hakaan’s AMAZING dresses after witnessing the sheer perfection of his fall/winter 2010 collection.

fashion Hakaan
Hakaan fall/winter 2010 collection

Hakan Yildirim studied at Mimar Sinan fine art University in Istanbul and begun to make his name in the industry before he had even graduated, managing to win the Istanbul’s Textile and Apparel Exporter Associations’ Young Fashion Designer prize as a student. He launched his eponymous line internationally at London Fashion Week last season and the fact that the show was styled by I-D Magazine Fashion Director Edward Enniful made it clear that it would be no normal debut collection. From the fashion royalty who sat in his front row which included Carine Roitfeld and Kate Moss (probably the two most influential style icons EVER), to the bonafide ‘supers’ such as Natalia Vodianova and Lara Stone who strutted their stuff on the runway, it was obvious that the Hakaan show was the hottest ticket in town. As fellow Turkish designer Rifat Ozbeck said of Hakaan, ‘a star is born’… and judging by the riotous applause that his debut LFW collection received and the excitement with which the fashion industry has pounced on this newcomer, Rifat was clearly not wrong.

fashion Hakaan

Similarly to David Koma’s dresses, Hakaan’s signature style is sharp, structured, short and sexy. His pieces have an architectural element to them and focus on texturing, contouring and cut-out detailing to give an edge to otherwise simple dresses. Hakaan’s fall/winter collection featured a palette of putty, dove, greys and blacks. Chic, modern and totally in-keeping with the minimal luxe trend that is so huge this season.

fashion Hakaan

It may seem like I am slightly jumping on the bandwagon when I say this, but Hakaan is without a doubt my personal favourite up-and-coming designer… and anyway, following the example of Carine Roitfeld and Kate Moss can hardly be a bad thing now can it! The neutral hues of each piece give them a sophisticated elegance whilst managing to leave very little of the wearers body to the imagination. It would take a brave (or possibly foolish) non-supermodel to go where only Natalia, MariaCarla and Lara have gone before but I predict that Hakaan’s dresses will be at the top of every stylish woman’s wish list for the season to come.

Love Ella. X

Posted on by Ella Catliff in Fashion 11 Comments