Net-a-Porter

Vogue Festival 2013: Day 1

Vogue Festival 2013

Should you be unfortunate enough to follow me on twitter, Facebook, instagram or any of the other zillion social platforms I use (loser alert!) you will no doubt know that I spent my weekend covering the second ever Vogue Festival. Having attended and thoroughly enjoyed the inaugural event last year, I was excited to see what Conde Nast would deliver this time around. The first and most obvious update was the change of venue. This year the festival was held in the Southbank Centre which, while perhaps not as traditionally charming as the Royal Geographical Society in Kensington, provided a larger, slicker and infinitely more convenient location.

Vogue Festival 2013

vogue festival

After getting thoroughly chilly walking across the river thanks to my foolish decision to dress for the (fashion) season rather than the weather, I arrived – Starbucks latte in hand – half an hour early for my first talk. Generally speaking I’m not one for arriving quite so promptly but seeing as said talk was to be given by none other than Net-a-Porter Founder and British Fashion Council Chairwoman, Natalie Massenet, I wasn’t taking any chances. When it comes to major girl crushes, there is possibly no girl – or rather woman – more “crushed on” than Natalie. Beautiful, intelligent, stylish and utterly inspiring, this is a woman who built a £350 million business up from nothing, started a luxury e-retail revolution, changed the way we consume fashion forever and managed to have two children and look damn good while doing it. On this occasion she was particularly radient in a figure hugging black number by Victoria Beckham but Natalie’s gorgeousness paled in comparison to what she had to say. Rather than giving a purely business based lecture on the genius that is Net-a-Porter, Ms Massenet treated us to a rather more personal account of her professional journey via a specially created Instagram profile, @nataporter_mystorysofar.

Vogue Festival 2013

To introduce her tale, Natalie attributed both her attitude to work and the idea that would go on to make millions, to her parents. Her father was a journalist who “taught me not to have any fear in life”, while her mother worked as model for the likes of Chanel and later on in life “took her passion for fashion and worked in exclusive boutiques”. Together they were “content and commerce”, a combination of creativity and business savvy the importance of which would punctuate not just Natalie’s talk, but virtually all those I heard over the weekend. The hour that followed was both my favourite Vogue Festival talk and frankly one of the most inspiring I’ve spent, ever. Rest assured it’s got my mind whirring and will hopefully result in a few interesting posts to come but for now, here are a few of the best life lessons I garnered from Natalie Massinet…

“You can have absolutely no fashion sense as a child and still work in the fashion industry” – On her teenage fashion disasters

“Sometimes you may have a plan for yourself but that is not the plan” – On being rejected from Princeton University

“Some of the things I had to do were rather humbling… Those things, hugely embarrassing to do at the time, build character… Gives you a really good 360 degree view of what it means to be in this business” – On modelling in Japan

“No matter what your job is, you have to make yourself indispensable… And certainly don’t sleep on the job” – On making an impact in a junior role

“Be nice to everybody because you will run into them in your future”

“The only limits in life are the ones we put on ourselves”

“I’d like anyone who enters fashion industry to day to keep on being creative but also understand that this is a competitive market and you have to have a strong business understanding” – On the importance of understanding business

I left Natalie’s talk with even more respect and admiration for her than I had already and a quick chat with my fellow Vogue Festival bloggers – Ella of Coco’s Tea Party, Navaz of Disney Roller Girl, Emily of Fashion Foie Gras and Monica of The Elgin Avenue - confirmed that everyone else felt just as awe struck I did. With an hour to kill until my next session I hot, or rather cold, footed it back over Waterloo Bridge for spot of sushi at Itsu.

Vogue Festival 2013

One “Super Salmon Three Ways” box later (if you like Salmon you’ll LOVE this bad boy) I made my way back to the Southbank in time to grab a quick cuppa at the Vogue Cafe before taking my seat for talk number two with Sir Paul Smith and Alexa Chung.

When Alexandra Shulman introduces the next speaker as “simply Britain’s most successful fashion designer” you know you’re about to witness something good. Then again with Paul Smith‘s name on the programme, a fascinating talk was pretty much guaranteed. Whenever I think my fashion knowledge is halfway decent I’m inevitably proved wrong. While obviously I’ve always known that Sir Paul Smith is a BIG deal and religiously given my Dad his iconic striped socks every Christmas, I didn’t know much anything about his life story or quite how crucial he’s been in terms of raising the profile of British fashion internationally. Just too add to the fabulousness of the situation, Paul was to be interviewed by the “beautiful, keen and shrewd” (Alexandra Shulman’s words) Alexa Chung.

Vogue Festival 2013

Aside from confirming that Sir Paul is impressive and endearing in equal measure, the hour that ensued offered a fascinating insight into the creative process and business nous essential for creating a successful fashion brand. As I mentioned earlier, this all-important balance between design and business was something of a theme throughout Vogue Festival. If I took one lesson away from the talks I attended it was that if you want to run a company in today’s fashion industry, an understanding of everything from hemlines to visual merchandising is necessary. So without further ado, here are a few of Paul Smith’s choicest pearls of wisdom…

“There are a lot of designers out there… You’ve got to have a point of view, we don’t need anymore designers so you’ve got to stand out”

“In about 14 minutes and half a million quid you’ve got to show the press you’ve got new ideas, things for the catwalk, for the magazines, for celebrities to wear… And you’ve got to show the buyers they can pay there rent”

“As human beings on the earth I think we should all respect each other. We’re all born equal, all people… It’s not about being falsely nice… Be interested and interesting”

“As a designer your job is not just about design… In today’s world it’s not, there’s a major recession on”

“Continuity is what I love… Having something for 5 minutes is easy but having it for 108 years, like me, that’s harder”

As I’m sure you all know by now, I have a leeeetle bit of a Starbucks obsession. I’m not pretending it’s the finest coffee in the world but there’s something so darned comforting about ordering your “usual”. With half an hour to spare and the nearest Starbucks roughly ten minutes power walk away I decided that it could be done. After legging it to embankment and back, spilling large amounts of coffee on myself and getting embarrassingly out of breath I was just in time to smuggle my latte into the Purcell Room for my first panel discussion “Mad About the Girl” with Anna Dello Russo, Susie “Bubble” Lau and Garance Dore.

Anna Dello Russo - Vogue Festival -pls credit - Morgan O'Donovan.jpg

Seeing that the talk was on “The World of Women who Dominate Modern Street Style and the Effect of the Blogosphere on Fashion and the Media”, I had a vested interest in what the panelists would have to say. I won’t write too much about it now because I’m planning a separate piece next week so just to give you a peek into the lives, minds and wardrobes of these three digital pioneers…

“I felt that fashion was a thing to be worn, by just objectified” – Susie Lau

“It’s about being 20 people in your own personality” – Anna Dello Russo

“Anna has two apartments, one for her and one for her clothes” – Garance Dore on Anna Dello Russo

“I just shoot the things that inspire me… When I see something that makes me dream or makes me think that I want to really be that girl… Then I take a picture” – Garance Dore

“It’s about keeping that enthusiasm and not becoming too jaded… I still find things to get excited about everyday… New designers, creatives, styles in different places of the world” – Susie Lau

I have to say, one of the most riveting parts of this particular talk was the audience questions. Anna Dello Russo provokes a pretty strong reaction and between one girl standing up and saying she’d made her a dress, to an Italian fellow’s slightly confusing proclamation that his best friend lives in the same apartment building as Anna, the whole thing was entertaining in an ever-so-slightly awkward sort of way. To her credit, Anna handled the stranger questions with dignity and charm, had I not already been a stalwart ADR fan, that would have converted me. After a quick break during which we all squabbled over the only two non-occupied plug sockets in the building (iPhone battery life is the bane of every blogger’s existence) it was time to make our way back inside the auditorium for the final session of day 1, Michael Kors.

Michael Kors & Yasmin Le Bon - Vogue Festival - pls credit Morgan O'Donovan.jpg

Remember how we all fell head-over-heels in love with Tom Ford at last year’s Vogue Festival? Well this time around it was Michael who had us swooning in our seats. I’ve often heard it said that Mr Kors is the funniest men in fashion and an hour of him in conversation with his old friend Yasmin le Bon confirmed it. But besides being almost too charming for words, Michael Kors is also one of the smartest businessmen in the industry who, since his early days working in a New York store and partying at Studio 54, has built up an international empire based on the principle of making women look and feel both comfortable and beautiful. I took a fair few things away from the talk, not least that the fashion world was a wild place to be in the 80′s. Here are a few more choice quotes from the wonderful Michael Kors…

“When I was 5 years old my mom was getting remarried. I went with her for the fitting and when she put the dress on it was covered in bows, zillions of bows… I said, “there are so many bows” and my mom was like “I think he’s got a point”… The next thing I know the tailor came in and started snipping off the bows… The dress ended up being very classic, she didnt stay married but the pictures looked great” – Michael Kors on his first fashion memory

“I have a lot of kids say to me “I can’t get a design job” and I say just go work in a store!”

“Whether its a model in a fashion show, a celebrity on the red carpet or a woman on the street… It’s all about who’s wearing the clothes”

“We used to wear crazy outfits when I was a teenager in the hope he’d shoot us… And he’s still doing it” – Michael Kors on street style legend Bill Cunningham

“You’re the picture, I’m the frame, I’m here to set you up in the best way possible”

“I’m watching people at all times… The good the bad the ugly… When people started wearing sweatsuits on planes I thought there must be a better way to cut them” – Michael Kors on looking for inspiration

I could easily go on quoting Michael Kors FOREVER but this post is getting scarily near the 2000 word mark (sorry!) so I think I’ll call it a day for now. More Vogue Festival details coming your way soon!

Love Ella. X

Posted on by Ella Catliff in Fashion 3 Comments

Weekly Wish List: 05/04/2013

wish list

1) Topshop paisley jacquard crop top, £32, click here to buy
2) Topshop fluoro paisley capri pants, £55, click here to buy
3) REDValentino raffia flower wedges, £310, click here to buy
4) Anne Bowes Jewellery Silver Heart Golden Pearl necklace, £140, click here to buy
5) Quay Za Ha square sunglasses, £25, click here to buy
6) IRO Ashville leather biker jacket, £785, click here to buy
7) Kenzo clouded leopard print tote bag, £265, click here to buy
8) Reed Krakoff mirror leather Oxford shoes, £430, click here to buy
9) Paige Denim Tyler vintage mid rise boyfriend jeans, £208 click here to buy
10) REISS Gwen sleeveless striped tank, £45, click here to buy

Love Ella. X

Posted on by Ella Catliff in Shopping 2 Comments

Weekly Wish List: 29/03/2013

wish list

 

1) REISS 1971 Ice Blue Crewneck Jumper, £179, click here to buy
2) J Brand 811 Skinny Jeans in Neon Coral, £200, click here to buy
3) Folk light grey Steph boots, £315, click here to buy
4) McQ Pink Razor Blade Scarf, £135, click here to buy
5) LInda Farrow for Charlotte Olympia Feather Sunglasses, £135, click here to buy
6) Whistles Safari Leopard Print Parka, £125, click here to buy
7) Marc by Marc Jacobs Cross Body Bag, £260, click here to buy
8) Charlotte Olympia Miranda Silk Twll & Bamboo Sandals, £545, click here to buy
9) Carven Front Pleat Skirt, £260, click here to buy
10) Carven Textured Double Breasted Jacket, £420, click here to buy

Love Ella. X

Posted on by Ella Catliff in Shopping Leave a comment

Goodbye Glossies?

british vogue glossies

Last Monday the British Fashion Trust invited me to hear Alexandra Shulman in conversation with Tom Chapman. The Editor of British Vogue talking designers, shopping and style with the Co Founder of Matches? I certainly didn’t need to be asked twice! Given the calibre of the speakers I imagined some sort of lecture theatre scenario with hundreds of eager bloggers and journos in attendance so didn’t stress about pitching up solo after my plus one dropped out last minute. However, when I arrived at Claridges I was ushered not into a vast banquet hall but escorted up to an intimate space on the 6th floor. “Intimate” would indeed be the best word to describe the situation I found myself in. Think British Fashion Cheief Executive Caroline Rush, Kim Hersov, and a handful of other editors and major industry names sipping champagne, looking unbelievably chic and chatting amongst themselves. I very nearly turned around and fled but by the time I’d gauged the situation and kicked myself for going alone it was too late to escape without looking like a total moron. So I steeled myself, grabbed a glass and stayed… Boy, am I glad I did.

As Alexandra Shulman reminded us, “house rules” applied so I probably shouldn’t repeat the whole thing word for word. However I reckon I can probably get away with saying that the conversation revolved largely around the increasingly editorial bent of e-tailers and the effect this has, or doesn’t have, on glossies. The past 12 months have certainly seen a huge surge in the amount of editorial content produced by stores, both online and on Bond Street. At the same time increasing numbers of editors have left fash mags to take on roles in retail. Harpers Bazaar lost Lucy Yeomans and Carmen Bornogovo to Net-a-Porter and My-Wardrobe respectively, while Vogue waved goodbye to Fashion Coordinator, Tilly Macalister Smith who recently joined Tom’s team at Matches. So does the fact that virtually every fashion emporium on the planet now produces their own online and/or print magazine spell doom for the glossies? Has the likes of Bornogovo and Macalister Smith moving over to retail created an atmosphere akin to “the Wild West”, as Shulman joked that rainy evening at Claridges? Are the lines between editorial and retail eventually going to end up so blurred that it’s impossible to decipher one from the other? The resounding message I got from Alexandra Shulman and Tom Chapman’s discussion was no, there is still a place for both and many people still want their monthly dose of fashion delivered to their doorstep, not their iPad.

The iPad issue raised another very interesting point, namely how far should fashion magazines be about selling products? Grazia, for instance, recently released their app which allows you to “click to buy” pretty much every garment featured, an idea that’s both ingenious and lethal for your bank balance. So if magazines can be used for shopping, and online stores are packed with articles, editorials and trend reports where does one end and the other begin and do we really need both? For all her innovations, Shulman is a traditionalist in this respect. She feels ”very passionately that a magazine isn’t just something to sell product through” and argued that “you have to be careful as a journalist… that you don’t start catering your content to what people are interested in.” According to her, Vogue and it’s ilk should still predominantly be about inspiring, mesmerizing and telling people what’s chic, not just showing them stuff you think they’ll buy. This is a trap that, on a much MUCH smaller scale, I constantly try not to fall into. In between “weekly wish lists”, affiliate marketing and “ohmigod look at these shoes!” type posts, as a blogger it’s easy to inadvertantly find yourself flogging clothes which isn’t really what the whole thing’s about.

Another point that cropped up was cost, always a contentious subject. If the likes of Matches, Net-a-Porter and My-Wardrobe are offering magazine content free of charge won’t people just do their reading online instead of paying £4.10 for Vogue? According to Shulman, that’s not the case for the simple reason that the online user is “not the same” as the print one. Personally I’m not sure that’s entirely true but I certainly don’t think that having the option of finding out about the latest trends on Net-a-Porter will result in widespread magazine subscription cancelletions (tongue twister alert!). In order to survive retailers need people to buy their products so, unlike traditional magazines, their editorial content is about engaging the customer but ultimately the point is to encourage them to make a purchase. That’s not to say e-tailers aren’t offering up top quality stuff, God knows if the likes of Lucy Yeomans are in charge it will undoubtedly be fabulous. But from where I’m sitting it seems that one approaches the Matches website in a different way to, say, the latest issue of Harpers Bazaar. If you’re shopping, be it on My Wardrobe or ASOS the editorial content serves the purpose of helping you decide what to buy, which of the featured brands to support and seasonal trends to buy into. A monthly glossy isn’t so much about finding a new pair of jeans or getting the latest fashion news, it’s about enjoyment, inspiration and experience. Digital devotee though I am, personally I’d always rather curl up with a cup of tea and a magazine than my iPad.

I know I haven’t really come to much of a conclusion, to be honest I don’t have the knowledge to do so. But I think, and certainly hope, that the next few years will see fantastic editorial driven e-tailers and our favourite glossy magazines continue to co-exist. What do you reckon?

Love Ella. X

Posted on by Ella Catliff in Fashion 2 Comments

Valentines Wish List 2013

Two weeks to go until Valentines Day and shops, restaurants and bars everywhere are no doubt eagerly awaiting, or already enjoying, the clink of their tills growing ever fuller. This makes me sound like I’m one of those ultra cynical types who refuse to partake in any sort of V Day celebrations on the grounds that it’s a purely commercial holiday which I’m really not. I’m not an idiot, I’m fully aware that  February 14th is a perfect excuse for retailers and restauranteurs to cash in on those of us with more romantic natures. But, my fashion loving friends, it’s also an excuse to demand an extravagant and entirely undeserved present from that special someone or, just buy one for yourself! Here are a few of my valentines wishes this year, let’s hope the bf’s feeling generous…

valentines

1) Banjo & Matilda Heart Cashmere Sweater, £265, click here to buy
2) Miu Miu Cropped Cady Pants, £340, click here to buy
3) 3.1 Phillip Lim Devon D’Orsay Snakeskin Pumps, £355, click here to buy
4) Mulberry Valentines Alexa Bag, £955, click here to buy
5) La Perla Shanghai San Satin & Tulle Briefs, £115, click here to buy
6) La Perla Shanghai San Satin Blend Chemise, £355, click here to buy
7) Anne Bowes Jewellery Vintage Blue Heart Necklace, £200, click here to buy
8) Smythson “Everyday I Love You” Wafer Notepad, £35, click here to buy
9) Marc by Marc Jacobs Lips Makeup Bag, £75, click here to buy
10) Charlotte Olympia Love Me Heart Applique Pumps, £990, click here to buy
11) Anya Hindmarch Studded Heart Zip Top Pouch, £350, click here to buy
12) RED Valentino Crystal Flower Applique Dress, £599, click here to buy

Love Ella. X

 

Posted on by Ella Catliff in Shopping 2 Comments
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